On The Western Trail
In March 1874, a momentous event unfolded in the annals of the cattle trail industry. John T. Lytle, a dauntless cattleman and drover, embarked on a daring journey with a colossal herd of 3,500 Texas cattle. Their destination was the Red Cloud Agency, now known as Fort Robinson, in Nebraska. This monumental expedition, spanning four states, blazed a trail and left an enduring mark on the vibrant history of American cattle droving, a testament to Lytle's indomitable spirit.
The newly established Western Trail, a name that would soon resonate across the cattle industry, swiftly surpassed the renowned Chisholm Trail system, cementing its place in history as a pivotal conduit for the cattle industry. Stretching across vast distances and enduring for an extended period, the Western Trail revolutionized the transportation of an unprecedented number of cattle, leaving an indelible mark on the industry. Its operational span from 1874 to 1884 played a crucial role in the industry's growth and evolution, significantly reshaping the landscape of cattle transportation. The Western Cattle Trail system spanned thousands of miles and facilitated the movement of an astonishing six million cattle. This remarkable feat played a pivotal role in shaping the development of the American West. Along the trail, specific locations became iconic symbols of the cattle drives, such as Doan's Crossing, a vital resting point where cattle were watered and grazed; Dodge City, a bustling center of cattle trade and commerce; Ogallala, a significant starting point and supply center for the trail; Belle Fourche, a crucial hub for cattle markets and transactions; Miles City, a central location for the shipment of cattle to various destinations; and Fort MacLeod, an essential outpost in Canada that connected the trail to northern territories. These landmarks stand as testaments to the enduring legacy and impact of the Western Cattle Trail on the development and expansion of the Western frontier. Gary Kraisinger, a knowledgeable historian of the Western Cattle Trail, recently shared the captivating history of Dugan's Roadhouse, a pivotal stop along the Western Trail near Dodge City. This historical site facilitated trade and travel in the American West. Dugan's Roadhouse was the first stopover for travelers south of Dodge City and a significant freight center on the Atchinson, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway. This made it a bustling hub for freight wagons destined for Fort Supply and other points south as they traversed the pathway by Dugan's Road House from Dodge City. In the 1870s, Mulberry Creek flowed gently through the landscape, adding a soft soundtrack to the surrounding scenery. Positioned about a mile and a half southeast of where we stand today, Dugan's Road House and Ranche served as a mere rest stop and a vital focal point along the bustling Fort Dodge—Fort Supply military road.
The year was 1874, and James Dugan and his wife were the proprietors of a quaint store housed in a sod building with two modest rooms and floors made of dirt. At first, their clientele consisted of soldiers and freighters traveling along the military road. Still, soon, they found themselves serving the cowboys from Texas as they journeyed along the Western Cattle Trail. The flexibility and resourcefulness exhibited by Dugan's Road House during this time were truly remarkable.
Josephine, the daughter of James Dugan, entered into matrimony with Hamilton B. Bell, a highly regarded figure in Dodge City, in the same year. Later, in 1878, Ham Bell ingeniously repurposed lumber from his Dodge Varieties Can-Can dance hall to establish a trading post next to his father-in-law's Roadhouse.
The Roadhouse and trading post were strategically positioned at the junction of two major routes. One route led northeast to Fort Dodge, while the other went north to Dodge City. This prime location made it a bustling hub for business, attracting trail drivers and travelers from various routes in Texas and the Chisholm Trail. Several Texas feeder trails, including the Jones de Plummer, the Adobe Walls/Palo Duro-Dodge City Trail, the Tascosa and Fort Bascom Trail, and the Tuttle Trail, all interconnected near or passed through Dugan's Road House on Mulberry Creek.
Notably, just north of the roadhouse location, an earlier branch of the Santa Fe Trail ran east-west toward Santa Fe, New Mexico. This area, steeped in history, also holds significant importance, as it is where Coronado passed in 1541 on his journey to Quivira. The sheer historical weight of this area is genuinely awe-inspiring.
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Gain valuable insights into the unparalleled history of the Western Cattle Trail from Michael Grauer, a renowned expert in cowboy culture and the curator of Cowboy Collections and Western Art at the McCasland Chair. His recount of the narrative of this remarkable chapter in American history will provide you with a comprehensive understanding of the Western Trail. In this Brown Bag presentation, you will delve into the fascinating history of The Western Trail, a critical cattle route operational from 1874 to 1897. This historical phenomenon facilitated the transportation of an estimated six to eight million cattle across a vast network of roads, pivotal in establishing renowned ranches in the northern Great Plains region. The trail connected crucial locations such as Doan’s Crossing, Dodge City, Ogallala, and Fort MacLeod, spanning nine states, northern Mexico, and western Canada. Surpassing the Chisholm Trail in duration, cattle volume, and distance covered, the Western Trail is a testament to the enduring significance of American cowboy culture and Western history, becoming “The Greatest Cattle Trail of All! Click here to join us at the 150th Anniversary Conference.
Article by Michael King
Michael Grauer, the McCaslin Chair of Cowboy Culture and curator at the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum, is scheduled to present at the 150th-anniversary Western Cattle conference at Boot Hill Museum in Dodge City, Kansas, on November 1st and 2nd, 2024.
During the conference, Michael will deliver two presentations. His first presentation will begin with an engaging exploration of the vibrant history and cultural significance of the King Ranch, focusing on its pivotal role in the Western Cattle Trail. One aspect of "Trailing Cattle from the King Ranch in South Texas" will feature a recording of Bob Kennan, a renowned King Ranch resident historian.
Michael will examine the utmost importance of Bob's dedicated career, which has been crucial in unveiling the King Ranch's rich history. Michael adds, "Bob Kennan has played a vital role in uncovering the rich tapestry of the ranch's past. His work dates back to the ranch's establishment in 1853 when Captain Richard King purchased a creek-fed oasis in the Wild Horse Desert of South Texas."
Michael's second presentation will be on The Art of the Cattle Trail, a collection of Western Art. For those attending this presentation, it will be a unique and privileged opportunity to learn from his extensive research into this collection, which he has dedicated several years. His discussion will focus on this unique and extensive exploration, providing an exciting opportunity for the audience to delve into the depth of Western art.
One of his notable publications delves into the life and work of the Texas artist Frank Ray. Titled 'Rounded Up at Glory,' this biography is significant as Ray was the sole artist to witness the cattle drives in their raw, unromanticized form. As Michael puts it, 'Frank Ray's pioneering role in bringing realism to Western art is enlightening. Most depictions we see of these drives were nostalgic or romanticized by artists such as Frederick Remington and Charlie Russell, who were contemporaries of Mr. Ray. Initially, the phenomenon of moving cattle from one part of the US and northern Mexico to another was utterly unfamiliar to the general public in the United States and the world.’
During his presentation in Dodge City on November 2nd, Michael Grauer will describe an illustration that vividly captures the intense chaos of cattle stampeding down Front Street. In this illustration, he will humorously debunk the popular culture portrayal of moving cattle through downtown Dodge City. Michael will underscore that this false portrayal, despite its widespread acceptance, is far from the truth and has, unfortunately, shaped what most people think they know about the American West. However, Michael's rigorous research has successfully corrected these misconceptions, providing a more accurate understanding of the American West and the cattle trail phenomenon and enlightening the audience.
Those interested in attending the conference should note that the registration fee is $75.00 per person, and registration can be completed via the organization's website or mail. Active participation from attendees is not just encouraged; it's essential to ensure the success of this significant event. To learn more about how to register to attend this conference, go to www.westerncattletrailassoc.com/conference-info and reserve a seat at this two-day event on November 1st and 2nd.
Second Battle of Adobe Walls by Michael King
Under the terms of the Medicine Lodge Treaty of 1867, the federal government fixed the Arkansas River as the northern boundary of the Indian country for the tribes of the Southwestern plains. It guaranteed that white hunters should not cross that stream. But they did. In 1872, the mushroom town of Dodge City, Kansas, sprang into existence and became the outfitting point and center of activity of the hide hunters who, with their big Sharps buffalo guns, were constantly invading the Red Man's country.
The hides of the buffalo could be sold for $3 apiece. Since the buffalo were plentiful then, a man could kill as many as fifty per day. The buffalo hunters would take their hides with large team-pulled wagons to Dodge City, Kansas, the nearest railroad point at the time. Supplies also had to be purchased at Dodge City. Provisions and ammunition for hunters would be freighted back to them by the wagons that took their buffalo hides to market.
By the spring of 1874, the slaughter had been so great that the buffalo had been virtually wiped out near Dodge City. The future economy of Dodge City came into question as the hide trade became less profitable, for there were no buffalo to be found. Although no accurate sources are available, Colonel Richard Irving Dodge of Fort Dodge estimated the buffalo kill in Kansas to be close to 3.5 million over the 1872-1874 period. An estimated 850,000 buffalo hides were shipped from Dodge City in 1872-1874.
So A. C. Myers, who was in the Dodge general merchandise business, organized an expedition to establish a trading post farther south where the hunters could get their supplies and to which they would bring their buffalo hides, which Myers would freight back to the Kansas "hide capital." Forming a partnership with Fred Leonard and accompanied by a party of 20-odd frontiersmen, Myers set out for the forbidden Indian country.
Among the party members were Jim Hanrahan, an old buffalo hunter who was going along to open a saloon at the new trading post; Thomas O'Keefe, a blacksmith; and two young buffalo hunters destined for future fame—Billy Dixon and Bat Masterson. After a Journey of 160 miles, the expedition reached a spot on the south fork of the Canadian where stood the ruins of an old trading post, Walls, which had been known as Adobe, built by William Bent and Ceran St. Vrain sometime before 1840. A mile or so farther on, in a broad valley with a pretty stream called East Adobe Walls Creek, Myers and his companions unloaded their wagons and set about establishing the second Adobe Walls, which was to become even more famous than the first. Myers and Leonard built a picket house, 20 by 60 feet In size; Lianruhan put up a sod house. 25 by 60, and O'Keefe opened his blacksmith shop in a picket structure, 15 feet square. My-ers and Leonard also built a stockade corral by setting big cottonwood logs on end in the ground. A short time later, Rath and Wright, leading merchants of Dodge City, decided to establish a branch store at Adobe Walls and built a sod house, 16 by 20 feet, leaving James Langton In charge of the new business there. Willam Olds and his wife also came to Adobe Walls to open a restaurant.
For several years, the Indians had been watching with increasing alarm the wasteful slaughter of the buffalo by the white hunters. So when, in the spring of 1874, a Comanche medicine man named Isatal announced that he had a new medicine that would enable them to wipe out the white men who were exterminating the buffalo, he found the tribesmen ripe for such a crusade.
The first Indian leader to agree to help in this laudable enterprise was a chief of the Comanches, Quanah, the half-breed son of Cynthia Ann Parker, who, as a little girl, had been stolen from her home in Texas and had become the wife of the great Chief Peta Nocona. Then, the medicine man "carried the pipe" to the Cheyennes, Arapahoes, Kiowas, and Kiowa Apaches, and they readily agreed to accompany their Comanche brethren.
So, a great war party of between 600 and 700 mounted warriors set out for the buffalo hunters camp, and on the night of June 26, they camped about five or six miles from Adobe Walls, began painting themselves and their horses, and preparing themselves for the charge against the hated white men. "Those men shall not fire a shot; we shall kill them all," was the promise of Isatai.
Before going to sleep, Dixon and Hanrahan prepared themselves for an early start in the morning for the buffalo hunting grounds to the northwest. When the repairs to the saloon's roof were completed, the sky was growing red in the east. So Hanrahan proposed to Dixon that instead of going back to bed, they get ready to start out as soon as it was light. Dixon agreed, and as he started to get his horse, he looked down the valley. There, through the dim light of the morning, he saw a sight that almost paralyzed him for a moment.
A dark mass of horsemen was moving swiftly up the valley, and the next moment, it had spread out like a fan, and a mighty war-whoop shattered the stillness. Isatai was coming with his host of wild tribesmen to make good his promise to wipe out the buffalo hunters at Adobe Walls. Throwing his rifle to his shoulder, Dixon fired one shot, then turned and sped toward the Hanrahan saloon as the wild charge of the Indians swept down upon him. But this hasty warning was enough to bring the occupants of the saloon, who were already awake and dressed, to the windows with their big buffalo guns in their hands.
"We were scarcely inside before the Indians surrounded all the buildings and shot out every window pane." Billy Dixon says. "For the first hour, the Indians were reckless and daring enough to ride up and strike the doors with the butts of their guns." Andrew Johnson recorded how the savages backed their horses up against the doors of the buildings and tried to push them in, showing a willingness to fight at close quarters almost unparalleled in Indian warfare.
But the steady fire of the buffalo hunters soon discouraged this, and after beating off several attacks, the white men had a chance to take stock of their losses. Strange to say, there were only three. The two Shadler boys, asleep in their wagon outside the stockade, had been killed and scalped. Their big Newfoundland dog had evidently put up a fight, for he was also killed and scalped - a piece of hide having been cut from his side. Billy Tyler, one of the defenders of the Leonard and Myers store, was killed early in the fighting, and except for some minor wounds, these were the only casualties. Time after time, the Indians charged, but as their ponies were knocked down by the heavy slugs of lead from the buffalo guns and more and more of their warriors were killed or wounded, it began to dawn upon them that Issatai had been a false prophet. So, the charges ceased. During one of these lulls, a young Comanche, gorgeously appareled in a war bonnet and scalp shirt and mounted on a fine pony, made a lone charge toward the buildings in the face of hot fire from the hunters. Ridding up close to one of the buildings, he leaped from his pony, thrust a six-shooter through a port hole, and emptied it. He then attempted to retreat but was shot down. This daring warrior who had hoped to make a name for himself by his lone charge was Pe-ah-rite, the son of Horseback, one of the leading chiefs of the Comanches.
By late afternoon on the first day, the Indians had given up hope of wiping out the defenders of Adobe Walls and began to withdraw. After an anxious night of watchfulness, the buffalo hunters discovered the next morning that only a few Indians were lingering around the place, and some long-distance shots soon drove them off. During the second day, hunters from some of the outlying camps made their way unmolested into Adobe Walls, and that night, one of them, Henry Lease, was sent to Dodge City for help. Mike King, the author of Buffalo Days, gives Billy Dixon's account of a scratch shot he made on the afternoon of the third day.
In the afternoon, a party of about fifteen Indians appeared on the side of the bluff, east of Adobe Walls Creek, and some of the boys suggested that I try my big "50" on them. The distance was close to three-fourths of a mile. Billy Dixon gives an account of how he made the shot. I took careful aim and pulled the trigger. We saw an Indian fall from his horse. The others dashed out of sight behind a clump of timber. A few moments later, two Indians sprinted on foot to where the dead Indian lay, seized his body, and scurried to cover. They had risked their lives, as we had frequently observed, to rescue a comrade who might be not only wounded but dead. I was admittedly an excellent marksman, yet this was what might be called a "scratch" shot.
The Comanche attack at Adobe Walls caught its resident buffalo hunters literally sleeping. Dixon had left the ammunition for his own rifle locked in the settlement store. So, borrowing a Sharps.50-90 buffalo gun like that above from a bartender, he aimed at a horseback warrior on a distant ridge, killing him on the third shot. (Rock Island Auction)
More hunters came in on the third day, and by the seventh day, fully a hundred men were gathered there. Among these latecomers, so many of the "survivors" of later years were numbered. But by this time, the danger from the Indians had passed. The Red Men had departed for a series of raids in Kansas and Texas, which soon brought the military into the field and resulted in their eventual defeat. But before the attack at Adobe Walls ended, there was one more tragedy, one which darkened the life of the brave woman defender, Mrs Olds. On the fifth day, her husband was coming down a ladder with a gun in his hand when it went off accidentally, and she rushed from an adjoining room in time to see his body roll from the ladder and crumple at her feet.
As the sun descended, casting a warm golden glow over the rugged landscape, the small town of Dodge City buzzed with anticipation. A cloud of dust on the horizon heralded the long-awaited return of the hunters, the brave men who had ventured out to find economic relief but ended in a battle confronting the Indians who tried to protect their way of living. The townspeople lined the dusty streets, young and old alike, their eager faces lit with excitement and anticipation. Banners and streamers adorned the buildings, fluttering in the gentle breeze, and the sound of joyful chatter filled the air. As the riders drew nearer, the crowd erupted into cheers and applause. The returning hunters rode at the head of the procession, their faces weathered and stern but with a glint of pride in their eyes. Behind them trailed a line of packhorses laden with the spoils of their hard-won victory. The news of their return and the fight at Adobe Walls made each man a hero. The returning hunters became legends, recognized for their sacrifice to torch the spirit of bravery that will be passed on from generation to generation. The return of the great hunters gave each citizen of Dodge City a spark, setting a fire in hearts that had become tinder dry with economic disparity, which would soon turn to another economic boom, the Western Trail, and becoming a Cow Town.
Active participation from attendees is essential in ensuring the success of this significant event. Additionally, those who register early will be guaranteed a place and receive a special commemorative gift. To learn more about how to register to attend this conference, go to www.westerncattletrailassoc.com/conference-info and reserve a seat at this November 1st and 2nd two-day event.
Article by Michael D. King
In the rugged terrain of the American West, there existed a tribe known as the Cheyenne. They were proud and resilient people deeply connected to their ancestral homeland and had long lived in harmony with the land in their northern homes. However, encroaching settlements and the shifting tides of history forced them to confront a grim reality. A series of events known as the Cheyenne Exodus forever altered their lives.
In May 1877, the renowned Oglala Sioux war leader Crazy Horse surrendered his band at Fort Robinson, Nebraska. Accompanying him were at least two bands of northern Cheyenne, united under the leadership of chiefs Dull Knife and Little Wolf. Following their victory against Custer at the Little Bighorn, the bands separated due to the US Army's winter campaigns. Many endured harsh winter conditions and finally found relative safety, only to be greeted with this news of surrender, adding to their considerable hardships. Despite much suffering among the women, children, and elders in the spring, Crazy Horse took his bands to the fort. One officer on the scene remarked that it looked more like a victory parade than a surrender.
The Cheyenne were unexpectedly ordered to move to the southern Cheyenne reservation in Indian Territory (present-day Oklahoma). This news angered Little Wolf and Dull Knife, who had signed the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868, which permanently ceded lands in Montana and South Dakota, including the Black Hills, to the Sioux and Cheyenne. The Cheyennes were hesitant to leave their homes in the north. However, leading chiefs like Standing Elk, Dulknife, Wild Hog, and Little Wolf, who held significant influence within the tribe, eventually convinced them to move to the Cheyenne and Arapaho Agency under John D. Miles. Under the leadership of these chiefs, the Cheyenne people found themselves at a crossroads.
In the summer of 1877, approximately one thousand Northern Cheyennes embarked on a journey south towards Fort Dodge en route to Indian Territory. This relocation, under government supervision, was a testament to the Cheyennes' unwavering resilience. Just a year prior, they had participated in the Battle of the Little Bighorn, and some of the warriors still proudly wore clothing they had taken as trophies from the men of General Custer's U.S. Seventh Cavalry. As the Cheyennes camped near Fort Dodge in late July, before their journey continued to Camp Supply, a fascinating cultural exchange took place. Many Dodge City residents seized what they believed to be one of their last opportunities to observe the Cheyennes in their natural state. In return, the Cheyennes, out of curiosity and perhaps a sense of diplomacy, spent several days in the town, engaging in door-to-door begging and periodically performing native dances for the amusement of their hosts. Unknown to the residents of Dodge City, they would later have a second opportunity to encounter many of these same Native Americans under much less friendly circumstances. Once they arrived at the reservation in Oklahoma, their hopes of a new life were dashed, and they encountered disappointment and mistreatment at the agency. Nevertheless, the Cheyennes, especially Dulknife's people, did not succumb to despair. They struggled to adapt to their new home, their resilience shining through even in the face of unheard pleas for assistance. The harsh winter brought misery as disease and starvation claimed the lives of 47 Cheyennes, casting a dark shadow over their already troubled journey. Faced with such dire circumstances, the Cheyennes longed to return to their Montana homeland. The harsh, dry, and dusty conditions, coupled with a measles outbreak, made life on the reservation unbearable. It became clear to Dull Knife that the unfamiliar territory of the southern reservation was proving to be just as grim as their previous struggles.
In the early morning of September 9, 1878, Dull Knife made a daring and fateful decision. With his heart set on returning to his homeland at any cost, he quietly led his people north, their determination palpable in the air. Despite dwindling numbers, consisting of only about 353 individuals, Dull Knife's resolve remained unwavering. They departed from Indian Territory with 92 men, 120 women, 69 boys, and 72 girls, making their way through two-thirds of western Kansas in less than three weeks. No bison could be found en route, so they survived by stealing. Dysentery, chills, and fever plagued them, but their determination to reclaim what was rightfully theirs never wavered.
Following their departure, approximately 240 infantry and cavalry detachments swiftly activated the pursuit of Dull Knife and his band. Yet, the group's adept use of defensible terrain and shock tactics during combat allowed them to elude their pursuers. This strategic maneuvering showcases a tightly controlled yet precarious military society in motion, with the Cheyennes' individual warfare style giving way to centralized, disciplined leadership under a master strategist. Raiding parties fanned out on a large scale to seize fresh horses and supplies; feeding more than three hundred people daily made foraging for civilian livestock essential. Warriors captured dozens of horses and killed several employees at ranches along the Cimarron River. In Ford County on September 16, a cook in a cattle camp, "a colored man" named George Simmons, lost his life during a raid. In total, Northern Cheyenne violence claimed nine lives in Indian Territory and southwest Kansas. These attacks drove Dodge City residents into a state of near trepidation. The journey north was perilous, with the threat of capture looming over them at every turn. However, Dull Knife and his people's determination was unyielding, fueled by their yearning for freedom and their ancestral lands. The pursuit was intense, but Dull Knife and his band pressed on, their spirits unbroken. Their resolute march northward carried with it the echoes of defiance, a powerful force that fueled their unwavering strength and their refusal to be confined any longer.
Images: Map of the Route: University of Kansas Cartographic and GIS Services, from The Northern Cheyenne Exodus in History and Memory by James N Leiken and Ramon Powers; Cheyenne Woman traveling with a travois, image from True West Magazine, True West Archives; Punished Woman’s Fork, from WikiCommons, Public Domain; Pioneer Family from near Oberlin, Kansas, from Pinterest (could not locate original source); Kansas Historical Marker for the Last Indian Raids in Oberlin, Kansas, Kansas State Historical Society
Their determination to reclaim what was rightfully theirs led to clashes with settlers and conflicts with the U.S. Army. The struggles, sacrifices, and losses during their attempted escape from Indian Territory to Montana left a lasting mark on American Indian history. The echoes of the Cheyenne Exodus continue to resonate through time, shaping the narratives of Native Americans and settlers. This poignant chapter, chronicled by historians, novelists, and filmmakers, ensures the memory of the Cheyennes' trials endures, underscoring the enduring impact of their struggle.
However, Leiker and Powers deconstruct and surpass these stereotypes, emphasizing that history is a complex tapestry of narratives, never simple. They point out that the Cheyennes' flight left both white and Indian bones scattered along its route from Oklahoma to Montana. According to them, the descendants of the Cheyennes and the settlers they encountered are all Westerners who require a nuanced understanding of history to make sense of the bones and arrowheads scattered across the plains.
Leiker and Powers portray a rural West where diverse peoples, both Euro-American and Native American, seek to preserve their heritage through memory and history. This book is a compelling read for anyone living in the contemporary Great Plains or seeking to understand the West. Join us on November 1st and 2nd, 2024, for the 150th Anniversary Conference of the Western Cattle Trail. James N. Leiker will share the story of the Cheyenne Exodus, shedding light on the harsh realities experienced by the Cheyennes as they were forcefully taken from their northern homes. The journey was marked by disease, despair, and death. Sign up today to reserve your seat @ https://www.westerncattletrailassoc.com/conference-info.html
References:
Leiker, James N, and Ramon Powers. The Northern Cheyenne Exodus in History and Memory. University of Oklahoma Press, 9 Nov. 2012. 52-54 “The Northern Cheyenne Exodus in History and Memory.” University of Oklahoma Press, www.oupress.com/9780806143705/the-northern-cheyenne-exodus-in-history-and-memory/. Accessed 1 Aug. 2024. https://www.oupress.com/9780806143705/the-northern-cheyenne-exodus-in-history-and-memory/ richfed. “There’s No Place like Home … the Exodus of the Northern Cheyenne.” Richard’s Meanderings, 2 Jan. 2016, richfed.com/2016/01/01/isnt-it-a-long-way-home/. Accessed 1 Aug. 2024. https://richfed.com/2016/01/01/isnt-it-a-long-way-home/
Article By Michael D. King
By the 1730s, ranching had become vital to the region, transitioning to private ownership as Spanish missions declined. Central to our story is Margaret Borland, whose family journeyed from Ireland to Texas in the 1820s, driven by the promise of land and opportunity under John McMullen's impresario contract. The Heffernan family, including a young Margaret, faced immense challenges as they adapted to life in the untamed Coastal Bend region. Their remarkable resilience in overcoming cultural, environmental, and health obstacles set the stage for Margaret's significant role in the Texas cattle industry.
The episode also explores the tumultuous period of the Texas Revolution, highlighting the resilience and determination of Irish settlers. We follow the Heffernan family as they navigate the dangers posed by both Mexican and Texan forces, bandit attacks, and the harsh realities of war. Key events such as the Battle of Concepcion, the Goliad Declaration of Independence, and the infamous Goliad Massacre are examined for their impact on the settlers. The narrative shifts to the capture and negotiation involving Santa Anna, marking the end of hostilities and the beginning of a new era for Texas. We also touch upon the personal struggles and tragedies faced by the Heffernan family in the aftermath, including Margaret's life as a widow and single mother in the uncertain times of the Republic of Texas.
One of the pivotal moments in Margaret Borland's life was her journey along the Chisholm Trail, which played a crucial role in transforming Wichita into a bustling cow town. The Chisholm Trail, established by Jesse Chisholm in 1863, was instrumental in the Texas cattle trade. Margaret's journey along this trail is vividly recounted, highlighting the challenges and beauty encountered on the way to Wichita. Significant infrastructure developments like the Waco Suspension Bridge, which facilitated the cattle trade, are also discussed. Reflecting on Margaret's legacy and her untimely passing in 1873, the episode underscores the immense risks and hardships faced by those who dared to shape the early Texas cattle industry.
The story of Margaret Borland is not just one of personal triumph but also a testament to the broader historical context of the time. The Texas cattle industry was born in the Coastal Bend region, a geographical area of immense importance. The Heffernan family's journey from Ireland to Texas in 1829 marked the beginning of a wave of Irish immigration to the region and played a pivotal role in shaping the industry. The challenges they faced, from adapting to the new environment to dealing with cultural and health obstacles, highlight the resilience and determination required to build a new life in Texas. Margaret Borland's contributions to the Texas cattle industry were significant, but they were also marked by personal tragedy. Her life was shaped by the loss of her father during the Texas Revolution, the death of her first husband in a pistol duel, and the cholera epidemic that claimed her second husband. Despite these challenges, Margaret persevered, marrying Alexander Borland, one of the wealthiest cattle ranchers in South Texas. Together, they recognized Texas's potential as the hub of the American cattle industry, playing a significant role in its survival during the Civil War. These personal triumphs amidst adversity are a testament to Margaret's resilience and determination. The post-Civil War era brought new challenges, from a declining economy to the yellow fever epidemic of 1867. Margaret's resilience was again tested as she lost several family members to the epidemic, yet she continued to run the vast ranch by herself. Her determination was further demonstrated during the freak blizzard of 1871-72, which killed thousands of her cattle. Undeterred, Margaret organized a cattle drive to Kansas in 1873, marking the first time a woman led a trail drive. This monumental feat was a testament to her pioneering spirit and determination.
Margaret Borland's story is one of courage, resilience, and innovation. Her journey from Ireland to Texas, her contributions to the Texas cattle industry, and her personal triumphs and tragedies are a testament to the pioneering spirit of the Irish in Texas. This episode is rich in history, courage, and the indomitable spirit of those who shaped the early Texas cattle industry.
Join us for an episode that delves into the trailblazing legacy of Margaret Borland, a woman whose remarkable journey from Ireland to the heart of Texas cattle country continues to inspire. From the Spaniards introducing livestock in the 1690s to the critical role of ranching by the 1730s, we set the stage for Margaret's significant contributions. Experience the Heffernan family's resilience as they adapt to the rugged Coastal Bend region, navigating cultural, environmental, and health challenges that forged their indomitable spirit. Witness the harrowing trials during the Texas Revolution and follow Margaret's incredible journey along the Chisholm Trail, highlighting her role in transforming Wichita into a bustling cow town. Reflect on Margaret's legacy and the immense risks and hardships faced by those who dared to shape the early Texas cattle industry. Article By Michael King Gambling, a game of chance that was not just a pastime but a cultural phenomenon, held a significant place in the lives of the buffalo hunters and cowboys who propelled America's westward expansion in the nineteenth century. Whether it was a game of Poker played on a blanket or a Faro bet placed in a saloon, the thrill and excitement of gambling shaped the social fabric of frontier towns like Dodge City. The popularity of gambling in the West can be attributed mainly to the fact that all those who left the relative safety and comfort of the East to seek fame and fortune on the frontier were, in a sense, natural-born gamblers. In the early West, gambling was not just a game but a profession, a risky and uncertain calling that mirrored the intensity and unpredictability of frontier life. The arrival of the Texas cattle drives in the 1870s was a game-changer for the gambling scene in the West. These drives brought a wave of gamblers and eager cowboys to the railhead towns in Kansas, such as Dodge City. The ensuing card games of faro, Monte, twenty-one, and Poker, played in establishments like the Lone Star, the Lady Gey, the Long Branch, and the Alamo, became a constant feature, almost outnumbering the cowboys who were their prey. Dodge City, the final and most infamous of the Kansas cattle towns, underwent a remarkable transformation. By 1875, it became the destination for Texas Longhorns, and over the next decade, the small, makeshift town on the prairie blossomed into a Cowboy Capital. It earned its notorious reputation as the 'Beautiful, Bibulous Babylon of the Frontier,' a vivid testament to the rapid growth and prevalence of vices like gambling on the frontier. Frontier towns like Dodge City were a buzzing hub of high-stakes games like Poker and Ferro, drawing in gamblers from all corners. Gambling was popular entertainment during the 19th century, particularly in frontier towns. The arrival of Texas cattle drives brought a new wave of gamblers, including professional figures like Richard Dick Clark. Faro, a game with a complex layout and unique roles for the dealer and casekeeper, was a crowd favorite. Another popular game was Spanish Monte, which the Texas Cowboys loved. The intricate world of gambling in the Old West was not just about entertainment; it was an integral part of the lifestyle. Poker, in particular, has a fascinating history in the Wild West. One famous poker game involved ex-governor Thomas Carney, who lost all his possessions to Colonel Charlie Norton. Quick-shooting gamblers like Bat Masterson, who became famous as frontier lawmen, frequented these games. The game, often leading to disputes and even shootings, was more than just a pastime; it was a risk-filled environment that could change one's destiny. But the games of the Wild West were not limited to Poker and Faro. The Spanish Monte, for example, was introduced to the card game scene at the conclusion of the Mexican War in 1847. These rough and unruly frontier guerrilla fighters learned the game well while occupying Mexico City, and soon, it was popular in Dodge City. This game's origin goes back to Spain, where the name means mountain or pile, as in a pile of cards. In addition to Poker and Monty, there was also the game of Keno, a lottery game that originated from a Chinese general who needed money to finance a war. This game found its way into Dodge City and was played in gambling houses known as Keno Dens. It involved players purchasing a ticket or card and placing small wagers to win a significant payoff if luck was on their side. The world of Wild West gambling was a thrilling and risky realm where every bet placed was more than just a game. It was a pivotal part of the culture and lifestyle of the era, shaping the destinies of many and creating legends that are remembered today. Whether it was a high-stakes poker game in Dodge City or a round of Spanish Monte among Texas cowboys, the allure of gambling in the Wild West continues to fascinate us today. The Game of FaroArticle by Michael King After the cattle were herded together and branded, the cowhands separated them into herds. Initially, the cattle owners themselves drove the herds. Eventually, they hired agents to drive the cattle to the market for a fee, usually $1 per head delivered to the market. Large herds of over 2,500 cattle went up the trail to Abilene, with many smaller herds also making the journey. Each drive required a foreman, a cook, and about fifteen cowboys. Edgar Rye describes the system of driving cattle along the trail in his book, "The Quirt and the Spur." The system of driving the cattle along the trail is exciting, especially to a tenderfoot who, for the first time, is permitted to watch the proceedings. On either side of the herd near the front rode two cowboys, called the pointers, who kept the leaders on the trail and shaped the course of the herd. The remainder of the boys, except the cook and his assistant, were busy keeping up the stragglers and cutting out the strays. The cook's assistant, the wrangler, kept the saddle ponies moving in the wake of the herd, and the cook brought up the rear with the "chuck" wagon. The cattle were driven in double column formation, like an army corps on the march, and the cowboys, riding up and down the line like so many officers, presented a novel sight. In this way, large bodies of cattle were driven over the trail. Under the guidance of the trail boss, the operation was managed with precision. Each cowboy, equipped with three to ten horses and their own riding and camping gear, was prepared for the journey. The team was armed against wild animals, rustlers, and potential attacks from Native Americans. With the labor force, horses, chuckwagon, and food supplies, the drive could handle about 1500 cattle, potentially earning more than $50,000 once the cattle reached the stockyards in Dodge City or Abilene and were ready for sale.
The Longhorns were used to living on grass, and usually, they could find enough along the trail. However, even though the herds were forbidden, they would sometimes be stopped for a day or two to fatten on lush grass in the Indian Territory. The herd, strung out on the trail, was a testament to the teamwork involved in cattle herding. Two trusted cowhands rode in the lead, one on each side, as pointers. Behind them, at intervals, rode the swingmen and the flank riders to keep the cattle in order. In the dusty rear were the unenvied drag men to prod the laggards. This was not just a group of individuals but a team, each member playing a crucial role in the drive's success. Scouts rode in front of the herd to select the best route. The path would vary depending on the availability of water and grass. It also relies on the year's season and how many herds had passed over the ground that year. Despite minor changes in the course, the herd always traveled north. Scouts also alerted the trail boss to dangers such as bad weather, hostile Native Americans, and outlaws. The trail boss had complete authority over all the cowhands and other employees on the trail. In his book Cattle Trade of the West and Southwest, Joseph McCoy describes cattle-herding along the trail in early cattle-herding along the trail. It should be noted that 1869 the chuck wagon had yet to be invented. A herd of one thousand cattle will stretch out from one to two miles while traveling on the trail and is a magnificent sight, inspiring the drover with enthusiasm akin to that enkindled in the breast of the military hero by the presence of marching columns of men. Confident cowboys are appointed to ride beside the leaders and control the herd, while others ride beside and behind, keeping everything in its place and moving on, the camp wagon and "cavvie yard" bringing up the rear. Their resilience and determination in the face of such a monumental task is truly inspiring. A large herd with several saddle horses could require 12 men or more. The trail boss, either a ranch crew member or a hired drover—organized and led the affair. He selected specific routes and rode ahead, searching for water, grass, and suitable campgrounds. The cook and his chuck wagon also moved forward of the herds to ensure the meals and "ink-black" coffee were ready when the cowboys settled in for the evening. The chuck wagon and the cook play a crucial role in the success of the drive, providing sustenance and comfort to the hardworking cowboys. Each cowhand had specific duties. Several highly skilled cowhands, known as pointers, also called point riders or lead riders, rode at the side of the lead cattle to direct the herd. The point man who rides near the front of the herd determines the direction, controls the speed, and gives the cattle something to follow. Larger herds sometimes necessitate the use of two-point men. A privileged position on the drive, this job is reserved for more experienced hands who know the country they travel to. Flankers, who rode beside the herd, kept the cattle from straying too far. The flank riders rode near the rear about two-thirds of the way back. Their role is to back the swing riders up and keep the cattle bunched, preventing the back of the herd from fanning out. Other cowhands rode in the rear, or drag position, to keep cattle from straying behind. The drag riders keep the herd moving, pushing the slower animals forward. Because of the exhausting work and insufferable dust, this unpleasant job is typically reserved for green cowboys. Swing riders ride closely along each side of the herd, about a third back from the point rider. They are responsible for keeping the herd together and constantly looking for animals that might try to break away. They are also instrumental in backing up the point riders as the herd turns. If the point man leaves his position, a swing rider will ride until he returns. Wranglers took care of the extra horses. Each cowhand took along several horses. The men would switch horses a few times a day to keep the horses from tiring. The wrangler cares for the driver's remuda, ensuring the horses are fed and doctored. He typically drives the horses with the wagon, as his secondary duties include helping the cook rustle firewood, unhook the team, or any other odd jobs around the camp.
By Keith Wondra
Article Reprinted by Authors Permission from the May 9, 2023, Dodge City Globe
As Frederic Young, Dodge City historian, wrote, “names of Dodge City’s saloons…ring in the ear like the clink of glass mugs on beer taps and the smash of empty glasses against varnished mahogany-the Alamo, the Long Branch, the Billiard Hall, the Alhambra, the Saratoga, the Occident,…the Crystal Palace, the Lone Star, the Old House, the Hub, the Sample Room, the Oasis, the Junction, the Green Front, the South Side, the Congress Hall, the Stock Exchange, and the St. James. Some saloons…were known only by their proprietors whose reputations were the only advertising needed- Hoover’s, Peacock’s, Beatty & Kelly’s, and Sturm’s. Some bars ran in connection with hotels, dance halls, and theaters- the Dodge House, the Lady Gay, the Varieties, the Comique, and the Opera House.”
Many consider Hoover and McDonald’s Liquor Store and Saloon, which opened in 1872, the first saloon and business in Dodge City. It was south of the railroad tracks on Trail Street, east of Third Avenue. By the end of 1872, five of the thirteen wood-frame buildings in Dodge City were saloons. George Hoover and John G. McDonald moved their saloon and liquor store to the vibrant North Front Street a year later.
Early Dodge City saloons included gambling within the saloons. South of the tracks had women and music. They were also one-room shacks with dirt floors while serving watered-down drinks, mainly whiskey. The railroad's arrival in 1872 allowed saloon owners to update their establishments with fancy wooden bars, artwork, and billiard tables. The railroad also brought in brandy, champagne, wine, and various types of whiskey. More than mere watering holes, the early Dodge City saloons were the heart of a vibrant community. Initially serving the needs of buffalo hunters, their clientele expanded with the arrival of the cattle trade in 1875. This shift was not just a business decision but a reflection of the saloons' role in the community. They were more than just businesses; they were a part of the fabric of Dodge City, fostering a sense of belonging among the cowboys by naming several of their establishments after Texas names and places such as the Alamo, the Alhambra, and the Lone Star.
In 1877 alone, there were 11 saloons, with the most famous being the Long Branch. D. D. Colley and James F. Manion opened it in 1876 near the northeast corner of Second Avenue and Front Street. Two years later, Chalkley Beeson and William Harris bought it and turned it into a refined place with an air of sophistication. Since dancing was prohibited north of the tracks, Chalkley Beeson’s five-piece orchestra provided entertainment, later becoming the famous Dodge City Cowboy Band. The Long Branch served alcohol, Anheuser Busch beer, lemonade, milk, sarsaparilla, and tea. In February 1883, Luke Short bought Beeson’s interests in the Long Branch and partnered with William Harris. In November, Harris and Short sold the Long Branch to Roy Drake and Frank Warren, who owned it until 1885.
On the south side of the tracks, where dancing and soiled doves were allowed, the most famous saloon was the Lady Gay Dance Hall and Saloon. Jim Masterson, brother of Bat Masterson and Ben Springer, opened the Lady Gay in April 1877 on the southeast corner of Second Avenue and Trail Street. The interior consisted of a platform for an orchestra on one end with a bar on the other. On July 4, 1878, the Comique Theater opened and was attached to the Lady Gay. In 1881, Ben Springer sold his portion of the Lady Gay to A. J. Peacock, an owner of several Dodge City saloons. The Lady Gay was bought in August 1881 by Brick Bond and Tom Nixon and renamed the Bond & Nixon Old Stand.
By the early 1880s, prohibition had come to Dodge, and several saloon owners had converted their businesses to drug stores and restaurants. This included the Stock Exchange Saloon, which became a drug store, and the Lone Star Saloon, which became Delmonico’s Restaurant. By 1885, the cattle trade had left Dodge, and temperance leaders were trying to close the saloons. The November 27 and December 8, 1885 fires burned down the wood buildings on Front Street and closed the saloons.
Dodge City Saloon War of 1883
The Dodge City War of 1883 is the story of a bloodless conflict between a gambler named Luke Short and the political structures of Dodge City, who tried to force Short to close the Long Branch Saloon and leave town. Narrated by Brad Smalley, the incident was filled with ominous possibilities for violence and brought several of the most infamous gunfighters in the history of the Old West into Dodge City to seek justice for their friend – Luke Short. The event is best remembered because it produced one of the most iconic photos of gamblers and gunfighters. This photo, taken in celebration of their victory over the political structures in Dodge City, is known as the Peace Commission and stands as a testament to their courage and unity.
By Michael King Dodge City, a place of monumental historical significance, was founded partly due to buffalo hunting. However, the hunting only started after the buffalo became nearly extinct due to mass slaughter. At this point, Dodge City needed another source of income to survive. Fortunately, circumstances in other parts of the country ultimately provided that source, profoundly shaping the city's history. Post-Civil War, Texas, a land known for its resilience, was ripe for the cattle industry to thrive. Despite the lack of labor and the disrepair of their ranches, the Texans, renowned for their resourcefulness, saw a potential solution to their problems in the wild native Longhorns. Their resilience in the face of adversity is truly inspiring. Ranchers in South Texas embarked on the challenging task of rounding up the Longhorns to sell to eastern buyers. However, they faced a significant obstacle in transporting the cattle to the cities, with no railroads built to where the cattle were and the prospect of driving them to market, causing them to lose too much weight. The ranchers were in a predicament. Their solution was to walk the cattle to the nearest railroad shipping point, usually in Kansas, and then let them ride the rest of the way. The Chisholm Trail, the most famous cattle trail, started in south Texas and ended in Abilene, Kansas. As eastern and central Kansas became more densely populated, local farmers resented the Texans who allowed their cattle to roam freely, which damaged the crops. The farmers also feared "Texas Fever," a disease carried by ticks on the Longhorn cattle, which was deadly to the local cattle. The farmers put up fences to keep out the foreign herds and protect their cattle, and the Kansas legislature passed quarantine laws to prevent Texas cattle from moving through certain parts of Kansas. The legislative action led to the discontinuation of the Chisholm Trail, and cattlemen began using the Western Trail from south Texas to Dodge City, where the Texas trade was more welcome. On the trail, the hardy Longhorns, with their remarkable resilience, grazed for food and spaced themselves by instinct as they moved along about 12 miles a day. Their ability to endure the long journey and harsh conditions is truly admirable. A steer could be driven from the starting point in Texas to Dodge for about 75 cents. The fifteen or so men employed for the drive were each paid thirty to forty dollars a month, so by the time they reached Dodge, $90 or more jingled in their pockets, and they were ready to spend it all on a good time. The first herds heading to Nebraska reached the point of rocks on the outskirts of Dodge City in 1875, marking the beginning of a significant economic boom. The Santa Fe Railroad Company acted quickly by constructing a large new stockyard, and Robert Wright dispatched agents down the trail to assure the drovers that Dodge was ready and waiting for them. Storekeepers purchased new merchandise to meet the needs and desires of the cattlemen and cowboys instead of buffalo hunters. Saloon keepers gave their businesses Texas-inspired names such as Nueces, Alamo, and Lone Star. On May 12, 1877, the first herd from the Red River arrived in Dodge, solidifying the economic importance of the cattle trade. The drives increased until the number of cattle peaked at half a million for one year. The city was buzzing with activity and prosperity, a testament to the success and excitement of the cattle trade. Robert Wright advertised his store as "the largest and fullest line of groceries and tobacco west of Kansas City. It offers everything from a paper of pins to a portable house. The store provides groceries and provisions for your camp, ranch, or farm, as well as clothing, hats, boots, shoes, underclothing, overalls, Studebaker wagons, Texas saddles, rifles, carbines, pistols, festive Bowie knives, and building hardware. The profits are $75,000 a year." Wright mentioned that it was common practice to send $50,000 shipments to banks in Leavenworth for deposit because Dodge had no bank. The store served people of various nationalities. Wright could comprehend and communicate in most Indian languages. Mr. Isaacson was fluent in French, while Samuels had Spanish, German, Russian, and Hebrew expertise. Merchants and saloon keepers knew that trail hands expected to have a good time when they reached town, so they were prepared to provide the right ingredients. The saloons varied from small one-room shanties with dirt floors to long wooden buildings with painted interiors, intricately carved mahogany bars, mirrors, and paintings. These frontier saloons offered more than just poor-quality alcohol and strong spirits. The saloons also provided fine liqueurs, brandies, and the latest mixed drinks. Ice was always readily available to ensure that beer would be served cold and enhance the drinking experience in the newly developed Cowtown. The Old House Saloon even advertised anchovies and Russian caviar on its cold lunch menu. Dodge City's cattle era lasted only ten years, from 1875 to 1885. However, these crucial years shaped its reputation and global renown. It was a time of transition, as the 'Queen of the Cowtowns' evolved into a thriving farming community and trade center, marking a new chapter in its history.
Article By Michael King The Dodge City Rodeo has a captivating historical origin that sets it apart. It all began with the world premiere of the movie Dodge City' in 1939. Warner Brothers, the movie's producers, mandated that Dodge City be transformed into a western-themed town for the premiere. This included a requirement for an authentic rodeo to be held on the day of the premiere, April 1. Though they held a cowboy-style show at McCarty Stadium, there needed to be more time to prepare for a full-fledged rodeo by April 1. The "real" rodeo, the Boot Hill Roundup, had to wait until May. It was Dodge City's first annual rodeo. It lasted three days and was sponsored by the Great Southwest Free Fair Association, with Warner Brothers supplying much of the equipment. The final performance at McCarty Stadium on Sunday afternoon drew a crowd of 6000. The first rodeo event was a hit, as there's been a rodeo in some way, shape, or form every year since this emergent first effort. In 1950, Dodge City initiated a new festival, the Boot Hill Fiesta. The Fiesta was held in May, completely separate from the rodeo, and was a summertime affair. By 1960, the rodeo was known as the RCA Rodeo when it merged with the Boot Hill Fiesta. Together, they became Dodge City Days, held over three days during the summer. It later expanded to six days and is now ten days. In the 1970s, the rodeo portion of Dodge City Days nearly folded and was saved in 1977 when it was reorganized as the current Dodge City Days PRCA Roundup Rodeo. Ron Long served as its first president. The first reorganized rodeo had 175 contestants and paid out $8,200. Today, the Dodge City Rodeo has blossomed into a significant event. It occurs at the arena, east of 14th Avenue, just south of the Arkansas River. The five-day rodeo now boasts nearly 800 contestants, with pay-offs reaching an impressive $339,000. Dr. R.C. Trotter, who has been President of Roundup since 2003, has played a crucial role in this growth, committing 40 years of his life to Kansas' biggest rodeo, a Dodge City Days celebration staple. In his time with Roundup, the rodeo has blossomed. It's one of the top events in ProRodeo regarding contestant numbers and total payout. He credits the sponsors and fans for the success, but there's more to it. In its 35th year, Roundup Rodeo was enshrined into the ProRodeo Hall of Fame in Colorado Springs in July 2012. Trotter was on hand then, just as he is now. The commitment that comes with volunteerism is special. The more prominent festival, Dodge City Days, is sponsored by the Dodge City Area Chamber of Commerce. Their efforts have made Dodge City Days recognized as the second-largest community celebration in Kansas, topped only by the Wichita River Festival. Over 100,000 people attend at least one festival event, generating approximately three million dollars. However, the economic impact on Dodge City is about nine million dollars. The early pioneers like William F. Cody, Annie Oakley, Mabel Delong, William Pickett, Earl Bascom, and many more are at the heart of the rodeo's history. Their dedication and passion keep the rodeo spirit alive. It's the ranchers that genuinely support the legendary rodeos. Without our ranchers, we wouldn't have rodeo in the first place. As noted before, there are many complexions to rodeo. Some are the participants astonishing the gatherings in the stands; others are the timer technicians in the back, the rodeo clowns risking their lives in a barrel, and announcers moving the assemblage as they update them on the event. But when you think of it, rodeo is built by hard-working people with a passion. Like in the early days, people's livelihoods laboriously depends on ranchers. We have so many to thank for the history of rodeo. In conclusion, the history of rodeo is a testament to the enduring spirit of the cowboy. From its origins in the Wild West to its status as a professional sport, rodeo has undergone a fascinating evolution. The journey speaks to the resilience, courage, and innovation of those who have shaped this unique sport. As we look to the future, we can only anticipate that rodeo will continue to evolve, inspire, and thrill generations to come. For more information on the Dodge City Roundup Rodeo, visit the Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/DodgeCityRoundup/ or their Website at Dodge-City-Roundup-Rodeo. So, if you happen to be in the area, put on a hat and boots, and don't miss out on one of the top rodeos in the country, including Dodge City Days.
By Michael King
Dodge City, Kansas, is a quintessential American Wild West symbol. Its very name conjures images of dusty streets, gunfights, and saloons bustling with the ambitions and desperations of pioneers. But how did this iconic boomtown arise from the vast, untamed prairies of the West? To begin our story, we must delve into the rich tapestry of Dodge City's history, exploring its gritty beginnings and the visionary individuals who, with unwavering resilience, carved a community out of the frontier.
In the early 1870s, as the iron veins of the railroad stretched ever westward, Dodge City emerged as a beacon for those seeking opportunity. It began humbly with a solitary sod house belonging to Henry Sittler, the area's first known settler. Yet, it was only a short time before the entrepreneurial spirit of men like John MacDonald and George Hoover spurred the town's rapid growth. MacDonald, an early citizen and businessman, forged a pivotal partnership with Hoover, and together, they established the first saloon, planting the seeds of commerce in this nascent community.
Next came the Essington House, Dodge City's inaugural hotel, which became a cornerstone for the burgeoning town. The establishment's owner, J.M. Essington, met a dramatic end, a narrative arc emblematic of the unpredictable and often violent life on the frontier. Essington's demise led to him being among the first interred in the now-famous Boot Hill cemetery, marking another somber chapter in the town's development.
As we dive into the annals of Dodge City's past, we encounter figures like Frank Hopper, also known by the pseudonym Norf, whose written accounts helped to shape the town's early reputation. The nation learned of this wild town at the edge of civilization through his articles. Hopper's vivid descriptions of the saloons, businesses, and daily life in Dodge City provided a lens through which the rest of the country viewed the unfolding drama of the West. Businesses like Jacob Coller's general store and F.C. Zimmerman's gunsmith shop were instrumental in keeping Dodge City alive. These establishments, with their unwavering commitment, catered to the needs of buffalo hunters, soldiers, and travelers, supplying everything from clothing to firearms. The importance of such enterprises cannot be overstated; they were the town's lifeblood, facilitating its residents' survival and prosperity.
Interestingly, despite the contributions of both John MacDonald and George Hoover to the founding of Dodge City, historical records often favor Hoover's legacy over MacDonald's. This discrepancy in recognition is a point of contemplation, prompting questions about how history is recorded and the factors influencing who is remembered and who is forgotten.
The narrative of Dodge City begins by not merely recounting historical events; it breathes life into the stories of those who lived them. It invites readers to ponder the hardships, resilience, and triumphs of those who ventured into the unknown to forge a new life. The tale of Dodge City is not just one of economic opportunity but also of human endeavor against the backdrop of a wild and unforgiving landscape. In closing, Dodge City's legacy is as enduring as the legends that surround it. Its history is a testament to the determination of the pioneers who sought to tame the West and, in doing so, created a legend that continues to captivate the imagination. The enduring legacy of Dodge City is a significant part of American history, a testament to the determination of the pioneers who sought to tame the West and, in doing so, created a legend that continues to captivate the imagination. We encourage readers and historians to investigate deeper into Dodge City's annals, explore its citizens' enduring spirit, and appreciate the rich chronicles that shaped this American icon.
Most of the businessmen thought Webster's idea a good one. It would rescue businesses suffering from a slowing down of the cattle trade. Also, Dodge had always been a sporting town and a bullfight certainly would be different from the usual parade, races, prize fights, and hose-cart team competition. The Dodge City Democrat wrote of the event on June 28, 1884
A number of so-called good and moral people of the city have attempted to convey the impression... that there will be no bullfight... The reports were started by the same class of fanatical agitators who are eternally opposing every enterprise calculated to advertise Dodge and promote its growth and prosperity ... It is the same class of men who have for years done nothing but howl and kick and at the same time grow wealthy and fat.
Webster collected $10,000 from the merchants in two days to pay for the festivities. The investors formed the Dodge City Driving Park and Fair Association and elected Ham Bell as president and Webster as general manager. Webster started immediately making arrangements. He contacted W. K. Moore, an attorney in Mexico, who would secure the matadors. D. W. "Doc" Barton, who had driven the first trail herd to Dodge, agreed to scout the ranges and select the most ferocious Longhorn bulls. With his extensive knowledge of cattle, Barton spent days on the range, carefully observing and selecting the bulls that would provide the most thrilling and authentic bullfight experience. The Association bought forty acres of land at the city's west edge.
With a sense of urgency and commitment, they put up high wooden fences, planted trees, built corrals, chutes, a half-mile racetrack, and an amphitheater that would seat 2,500 spectators - all in less than two months. The speed and efficiency of the preparations were a testament to the town's unwavering determination to make the bullfight a reality, showcasing their resilience and commitment. As the news stories began to circulate, the determination of the Dodge City officials became evident. Reporters from New York, Chicago, St. Louis, San Franciso, Denver, and a dozen country newspapers booked rooms in the local hotels. The Santa Fe railroad announced it would run excursion trains from the East and the West to bring spectators to the Dodge City bullfight. Despite protests from groups concerned with the prevention of cruelty to animals and rumors that state authorities would stop the fight, the officials remained resolute. Governor Glick even expressed his interest in attending if the fight were held two days earlier. Townspeople at the time claimed that Webster received a telegram from the United States Attorney saying that bullfighting was against the law in the United States, to which the ex-mayor retorted, "Hell! Dodge City ain't in the United States." This bold and determined response highlighted the town's defiance in the face of potential legal issues. As the days before the fight dwindled, Barton rounded up the bulls and drove them into the new pens. The five bullfighters arrived with Attorney Moore, their sponsor. The town was buzzing with anticipation, taking on a festive air as the event drew closer, filling the air with a palpable sense of excitement and energy.
On July 4, 1884, the town was alive with the excitement of the Mexican bullfight. The dusty streets, the weathered clapboard houses, and the rowdy saloons all contributed to the allure of this wild western town. The arrival of the Mexican bullfighters added an exotic touch, and the preparations for the bullfight were a spectacle in their own right.
The bullfight held the entire town in its grip. Thousands of spectators, including cowboys, ladies, and children, filled the stands, eager for the thrilling spectacle. The matadors, adorned in flamboyant costumes, showcased their skills against the fierce bulls. The pinnacle of the event was the face-off between the slender Mexican matador, Gregorio Galardo, and the meanest bull in the West. The memory of this epic encounter, with its breathtaking display of courage and skill, still reverberates today among the citizens of Dodge City, connecting them to their rich history.
After the thrilling bullfight, Dodge City became even more unforgettable. The wild night that followed was filled with fights and gunplay, keeping the marshal and his deputies busy trying to maintain order. The marshal, a seasoned lawman with a reputation for fairness and quick action, and his deputies, a group of brave men who had seen their fair share of gunfights, were constantly on the move, breaking up fights and apprehending troublemakers. Despite the chaos, the town remained excited, the air crackling with the night's energy.
Yet, like all good things, the excitement eventually died down. The influx of visitors, while a boon for the local economy, also brought with it a wave of lawlessness and disorder. Having spent their money and nursed their hangovers, the cowhands left town. The painted ladies, who had been a colorful presence during the bullfight and the revelry that followed, also departed. The dust settled, and the town returned to its usual quiet state. In all its glory, the bullfight had left a lasting mark on Dodge City, a mark that would change the town's history forever. Keith Wondra, curator at Boot Hill Museum and Vice President of the Western Cattle Trail Association, Dodge City Chapter, will delve into the vibrant life of the legendary Ham Bell, an epitome of the Wild West spirit. This special presentation of Ham Bell's life will be held during Dodge City Days on July 31 at Boot Hill Museum starting at 2:00 P.M. On April 4, 1947, Hamilton 'Ham' Bell passed away. According to his obituary, he was one of the most influential men who lived in early Dodge City, shaping the community we know today. Boot Hill Museum curator Keith Wondra will talk about the life of this Dodge City pioneer, shedding light on his contributions to our local history. Born as Hannibal Bettler Belts in Washington County, Maryland, Ham embarked on a journey to Dodge City, Kansas, leaving an indelible mark on its economic and cultural life. In his early life, Bell was a restless jewelry store salesman who had mastered cleaning clocks. This skill would later pave his way to Kansas. He took Horace Greeley's famous advice, "Go West, young man, go west and grow up with the country," and embarked on a journey of self-discovery and reinvention. Ham Bell's arrival in Dodge City marked the beginning of his various ventures. His first business, a sod livery stable, grew into the largest structure in Western Kansas. Known far and wide as the Elephant Livery Stable, it became a meeting point for people throughout the region. Bell's entrepreneurial spirit did not stop there. He opened a dance hall and was the first to introduce the exotic Can Can dance to Dodge City. The dance quickly became the talk of the town, bridging the cultural gap between the frontier and the East Coast. Not just an entrepreneur, Ham Bell was also a respected lawman. His career in law enforcement spanned an impressive 36 years. Ham Bell's rule of never shooting his gun garnered him respect and admiration. His strategy was to draw his weapon in time to make the other man freeze, an approach that contributed to his survival in the volatile environment of the Wild West. Bell's political career was also noteworthy. He served two terms as mayor of Dodge City and two as a Ford County Commissioner. His unique physical attributes and charisma undoubtedly contributed to his political success. Beyond politics and law enforcement, Bell made significant contributions to modernizing Dodge City. He introduced the first women's restroom on the Santa Fe Trail and the first motorized ambulance and hearse in Dodge City. He also operated a furniture store and mortuary business, leaving a floral tribute on the casket of anyone who passed away in the city. Bell's adventurous life didn't stop there. He owned the first car dealership in southwest Kansas and operated a pet shop. When he passed away in 1947 at 94, he left behind a rich legacy and many stories that continue to captivate those interested in the history of the Wild West. The life of Ham Bell, a true pioneer, serves as a testament to the indomitable spirit of the Old West, painting a picture of a time of resilience, entrepreneurship, and cultural evolution. This presentation coincides with a temporary exhibit on the life of Ham Bell. We invite you to come and grab a coffee or even a sarsaparilla and help celebrate Ham's 171st birthday. Take advantage of this unique opportunity to learn about the life of a Wild West legend and explore Boot Hill Museum's special exhibit. We look forward to seeing you there!
In Dodge City, saloons were popular destinations for drovers to relax and quench their thirst after a long journey. The main road, Front Street, was lined with wooden shanties with porches where water barrels were kept in case of fire. South of the town was the infamous 'Red Light District,' a captivating area that was not only well-known for its three vices: whiskey, gambling, and prostitution, but also for the intriguing stories and characters it housed. This area, with its alluring mix of vices and captivating history, not only fueled the economy of Western Cattle Town but also formed a fascinating part of its history.
Keith Wondra, curator for Boot Hill Museum, tells us that the primary whiskey sold in Dodge City saloons was corn mashed, a staple of the Wild West. It had 40-50% ethyl alcohol by volume and was made from grain, water, and yeast. The production process involved mashing the corn, fermenting the mash, and then distilling the fermented mash. It was aged in new charred oak barrels and referred to as bourbon. During that period, almost every type of whiskey was called bourbon, regardless of where it came from, as long as it contained corn. However, one whiskey, known as the 'Old Sneak Head,' stood out for its unique ingredients and meticulous craftsmanship that would undoubtedly pique the interest of whiskey enthusiasts. Its ingredients included alcohol, tobacco, molasses, red Spanish peppers, and river water. Two rattlesnake heads were added to each barrel to give it spirit. The whiskey was ready to drink when the rattlesnake heads rose to the surface and floated after being dropped in a horseshoe, a process that was as fascinating as it was unique, adding a touch of mystery to its production. Saloon owners, driven by profit, resorted to a deceptive practice. They sold overnight whiskey, watered down to increase their profits. A gallon of whiskey cost $2.00, and a drink was sold for 25 cents, which meant the saloon owner made a profit of about 700%. The more they watered down the whiskey, the more profit they made, a practice that may have left a bitter taste in the mouths of those who sought a genuine whiskey experience. Between 1872 and 1876, it's estimated that 2,250 barrels of whiskey were consumed in Dodge City, which is the equivalent of approximately 70,875 gallons or 4,536,000 drinks. However, after the railroad reached Dodge City in 1872, a new era of drinking began. Saloons started selling not just whiskey but also beer, champagne, and wine, offering a diverse range of beverages. Join Keith Wondra on Wild West Podcast as we journey through time to uncover the captivating chronicles of Dodge City's early saloons. From dark, inexpensive origins to their influence in shaping the city's cultural and economic landscape, Keith guides us through every nook and cranny of these saloon stories, revealing fascinating details about these establishments that were Dodge City's lifeblood during its formative years. We discuss the infamous Saloon War of 1883 and its monumental impact on Dodge City and its economy. Original Story by Lynne Hewes Edited and Extended by Michael King
Contrary to Hollywood's glamorous fiction, singing cowboys were a genuine part of the earlier cattle drives, adding a touch of authenticity to cowboy culture. Long hours on horseback gave cowboys idle time to sing. Some carried harmonicas or even fiddles, but the human voice was the easiest and best instrument. Most started with old folk songs they had learned as kids, then changed the lyrics to fit their lives on the trail. This process of adaptation was not just about changing the words, but also about infusing the songs with their own experiences, emotions, and the unique challenges they faced as cowboys. Cattle drives were over by 1907 when historian John Lomax, a key figure in the preservation of American folk music, set out to study the cowboy's music. Lomax, known for his extensive field recordings and his efforts to document and preserve traditional American music, collected songs and ballads from any and everyone and put out advertisements in local papers. The response was nearly overwhelming. He compiled these songs three years later and published them as 'Songs of the Cowboy and other Frontier Ballads', a seminal work that significantly preserved and popularized cowboy music. E.C. Abbot, also known as "Teddy Blue," discussed cowboy songs in his autobiography, We Pointed Them North: Recollections of a Cowpuncher. Abbott wrote about his own singing on the trail. His book explained the popularity of singing this way: "Another thing about cowpunchers, they didn't have any radio or other forms of entertainment, and they got a big kick out of little things" (220). There was a practical reason for the song as well. Abbot wrote, "One reason I believe there were so many songs about cowboys," he wrote, "was the custom we had of singing to cattle on night herd. The singing was supposed to soothe them, and it did....I know that if you wasn't singing, any little sound in the night—it might be just a horse shaking himself-could make them leave the country, but if you were singing, they wouldn't notice it" Abbot talked about particular songs he said were his favorites, many of which had come from the Ozark Mountains. "I learned' The Little Black Bull' first," he wrote. "That's the oldest song on the range.... 'Bury Me Not on the Lone Prairie' was another great song for a while, but it ended up just like a lot of songs on the radio today; they sung it to death...." (222-4). Sometimes, boredom with traditional lyrics led to new songs. Abbot wrote, 'After a while, you would run out of songs and start singing anything that came into your head. And that was how [new songs got started]'. This process of creating new songs out of boredom and improvisation was a testament to the creativity and resourcefulness of cowboys. It also contributed to the rich and diverse repertoire of cowboy songs, which ranged from traditional folk songs to original compositions. Sources
Abbot., E.C. and Helena Huntington Smith. We Pointed Them North: Recollections of a Cowpuncher. University of Oklahoma Press, 1939. Cecil, Randle, and Shelby Conine. “Singing Cowboys.” Country Music Project. https://sites.dwrl.utexas.edu/countrym usic/the-history/singing-cowboys/
When we think of the Old West, images of dusty streets, gunfights at high noon, and saloons bustling with gamblers and outlaws often come to mind. In this latest podcast episode, we journey to the heart of these legendary tales to the town of Abilene in the 19th century. This was a time when the frontier was more than just a place—it was a crucible of American character and spirit.
Abilene, Kansas, emerged as a significant cow town during the late 19th century. It was here that cattle drives ended and cowboys, fresh from the long and arduous journey up the Chisholm Trail, sought the pleasures of civilization, however rough-hewn it might have been. The cattle industry was the lifeblood of these towns, and Abilene was no exception. Cowboys and settlers alike depended on the economic stability that it provided, even as they navigated the lawlessness that seemed inherent to these burgeoning communities. Our episode delves into the lives of the hardy saloon keepers, shrewd gamblers, and notorious sporting women who were as much a part of Abilene's identity as the cattle that flowed through its streets. These individuals helped carve a town from the Kansas plains that was at once a symbol of prosperity and a beacon of the wild spirit that defined the era. They turned Abilene into an emblem of the untamed frontier, a place where opportunity and danger walked hand in hand. The challenge of maintaining law and order in such a place fell to men like Tom Smith and Wild Bill Hickok, whose names have become synonymous with Wild West justice. Our episode recounts how Smith, using his fists more than his guns, brought a measure of peace to the town, while Hickok's approach was more aligned with the legend he had become—his six-shooter often being the final word in disputes. The impact of these men on Abilene, and the frontier in general, cannot be overstated, as they sought to impose order on a landscape resistant to it. In listening to our episode, you'll hear firsthand accounts of epic showdowns, the complexities of the cattle drives, and the transformation of Abilene from a dusty village into a bustling hub of nightlife and vice. We aim to paint a vivid picture of this complex metamorphosis, exploring the thin line between civilization and lawlessness, and how the people of Abilene navigated it. As the episode concludes, we reflect on the enduring spirit of Abilene, inviting listeners to continue exploring the dusty trails and stormy skies of the Wild West's past. With every tale told and every account shared, we keep the history of the American frontier alive, inviting engagement from our listeners to shape the stories yet to come. So saddle up and join us on this historical adventure, as we stir the embers of a time when the West was truly wild, and every corner had a saga to share. Subscribe for more episodes that promise to ignite your imagination and transport you to the heart of the Old West, a time and place like no other in American history.
When the U.S. Army successfully concluded the Red River War in early 1875, driving the Comanche and Kiowa onto a reservation, Lytle's trail became the most popular path to the railheads in Kansas and Nebraska. It remained the most used until the cattle trailing industry ended in the 1890s. The Western Trail, a pivotal component of the cattle-driving industry, was also known as the Dodge City Trail or the Texas Trail. It originated in the hill country of Texas near present-day Kerrville, where numerous minor trails converged. During the 1880s, the drives frequently passed by Dodge City, heading to Ogallala, Nebraska, and Wyoming.
In the late 19th century, cowboys faced treacherous terrains, tempestuous weather, and tumultuous cattle stampedes on the wild trails. This era's perilous tales offer a compelling insight into the life of cowboys, including their interaction with Indian territories and their survival against the harsh elements. This blog post takes you on a journey into this historical period, highlighting the dangers these cowboys faced and the courage it took for them to persevere.
The first point of discussion in this exploration is the hazards cowboys encountered on the cattle trails. The cowboys of this era had to contend with terrible roads, rough weather, cattle stampedes, and the need to pass through Indian territory to reach their destinations. Furthermore, they often had to pay tributes to the Indians they encountered as compensation for being allowed to traverse their lands. The picture painted by these cowboy tales depicts a world fraught with danger and uncertainty, yet also imbued with a sense of adventure and discovery.
Navigating rivers was another significant challenge for these cowboys. The narratives of Hiram G Craig and Jerry M Nance, who had to navigate the Washtaw River and Colorado River respectively, highlight the complexities involved in such endeavors. Cowboys had to find suitable crossing points, keeping in mind the water's depth, current speed, and the steepness of the banks. When cattle were swept away by the current, cowboys had to ride along the banks to find the lost animal, hoping it survived the ordeal.
An essential part of the cowboy life was the adherence to the 'Code of the West.' This unwritten code was crucial for their survival. It emphasized fairness, loyalty, and respect for the land. It included principles such as giving enemies a fighting chance, never stealing another man's horse, and never making threats unless they planned on backing them up. The loyalty of the cowboys to their brand was critical as it determined their survival.
In conclusion, the life of 19th-century cowboys was filled with challenges and hardships, but also adventure and camaraderie. Their survival in the harsh conditions of the wild west was a testament to their resilience and adherence to the unwritten 'Code of the West.' Their stories continue to fascinate us, offering a window into a unique period in history where men battled nature and each other to carve out their existence. James Frank Dobie, known as the "Storyteller of the Southwest," was born in 1888 on his family's cattle ranch in Live Oak County. Living both a rugged ranch life and within Texas's centers of education, he taught at the University of Texas, where he developed a course on Southwest literature. Dobie's mission became recording and sharing the disappearing folklore of Texas and the Southwest. He served as secretary of the Texas Folklore Society for 21 years. Dobie was a progressive activist, advocating for African-American student admission to UT in the 1940s. Despite leaving the University in 1947 due to his vocal politics, he continued writing until his death in 1964, leaving behind a legacy that valued liberated minds as the supreme good in life.
“Out in the dry Pecos country, a wagon boss once said to his cook, ‘Scour your pots with sand and wipe ‘em with a rag.’ The cook responded, “Rags all used up, but grass’ll do” ((99).
African American Alec Gross was old enough to have white hair. Dobie writes, “Everybody called him Uncle Alec. After he had been out a week with a remuda, he would have the horses following him, instead of him driving them” (113-4). He always carried a whip, but he rarely used it. Dobie writes that many cowboys carried six-shooters, but they seldom used them. He tells the story of his Uncle Frank Byler, who, in the 1880s, finally pulled his pistol out of its holster when he spotted a water moccasin in the water and tried to shoot it. Dobie says, ”The trigger or hammer had become so clotted with dirt and rust that he could not cock the gun....he threw it in disgust at the snake and left it in the mud. He realized, he said, that unless a man could use a six-shooter, he would be better off without it.” Dobie, J. Frank. UP THE TRAIL FROM TEXAS. New York: Random Press, 1955. |
Author"THE MISSION OF THE WESTERN CATTLE TRAIL ASSOCIATION IS TO PROTECT AND PRESERVE THE WESTERN CATTLE TRAIL AND TO ACCURATELY PROMOTE AWARENESS OF IT'S HISTORICAL LEGACY." Archives
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